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On the upper level of the Overseas Passenger Terminal, Circular Quay West, The Rocks Phone 02/9251 5600

Cuisine Type: Seafood   Reservations recommended well in advance  Transportation: CityRail, bus, or ferry: Circular Quay.  Prices: Main courses A$40-$50 (U.S.$28-$35). A$6 (U.S.$4.20) per person surcharge Sun and public holidays.  Hours: Mon-Fri noon-3pm; Mon-Sun 6-10pm.  Credit Cards: AE, BC, DC, JCB, MC, V

Without question, Quay (formerly known as Bilson's) is Sydney's best fish and seafood restaurant--and with its enviable location on top of the cruise-ship terminal, it offers perhaps the loveliest view in Sydney, too. In good weather the sun sparkles off the water and through the large glass windows the Opera House, the city skyline, the North Shore suburbs, and the Harbour Bridge all look magnificent. At night, when the lights from the city wash over the harbor and the bridge and the Opera House's sails are all lit up, the view is even better. The signature dishes are the basil-infused tuna, the Kangaroo Island roast chicken with ravioli and truffles (which the Sydney Morning Herald named the city's best dish in 1999), and the popular char-grilled beef tenderloin on mashed potatoes. The service is exemplary. Expensive, yet select, this restaurant has tempted all the big-name visitors to Sydney. Believe me, they tell all their friends

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